The plan had been to ride a largely gravel road route spanning over 2,000 miles (3,200km+), but abnormally heavy rains over KZN, the Free State and part of the Northern Cape in the first 5 days led them to scuttle that plan, rather sticking largely to tar roads to avoid a mud bath.
The originally planned route is detailed on the Notties-Parys-Le Cap - Namibe Detour - page. Click on link below:
Notties-Parys Le Cap - Namibia Detour - 2,000 Miler · Ride with GPS
The eventual "weather-adjusted" ride, however, was 2,628.5km in distance, and included a total of 18,006 metres of vertical ascent.
Click on the link below to the eventual ride route and downloadable GPX file on RidewithGPS:
Notties 2 Cape via Putsonderwater and Namibia · Ride with GPS
Then, it was into the Free State starting with a few splendid views of one of SA,s major dams, the Sterkfontein Dam. This dam is the 3rd largest in South Africa, the dam is unique in that it doesn’t have overflow spillways. As massive as it is, it is not built on any significant river, but receives most of its water via the Drakensburg Pumped Storage Scheme…..water being pumped up over the Great Escarpment from the lower lying Thukela River on the KZN side.
The dam was built back around 1980, aiding the diversion of water from KZN to the rapidly growing inland Transvaal region economy at the time.
Shortly thereafter, where our planned route turned onto the first gravel road of the day, we realised that it was time for change…..changing our route to tar roads and hot footing it through the Free State as quickly as possible to the hopefully drier Northern Cape. We had run into abnormal rainfall in the inland regions, and the gravel roads had become a mud bath.
The diversion gave us a chance to experience some of the Free State Province’s decay. The province is fortunate to have a few key national roads criss-crossing it, well-maintained by Sanral, due to its central location in South Africa. But once off the national roads, and onto roads that are the responsibility of its provincial and local governments, many of the roads have become almost unusable with cars…..nice however for cyclists on mountain bikes who appreciate a lack of traffic.
On the 3rd day, the rain cleared for long enough for us to enjoy a roadside breakfast provided by Kev’s biking relatives who pitched up by surprise from Joburg.
The rain would persist for much of the first 5 days, as we hot-footed it to the west in search of drier land.
There was little time spent sight seeing in this poor weather…..as we moved through a number of small forgotten Free State Towns. These included Petrus Steyn, one of a number of towns named after former Free State President Steyn. There was also Heilbron, which served as the capital of the Free State Republic for a few weeks near the end of the Anglo-Boer War, and Bothaville, the major town in the region's "Maize Triangle".
West of Kimberley as we headed for Griekwastad, the former capital of Griqualand West Colony, the rain lessened, the weather began to dry up….the sunsets were observable….and it was almost time to resume gravel road riding along out initially planned route.
One of the highlights not to be missed, as we got back onto our originally planned track, was the visit to the famous ghost settlement of Putsonderwater. Putsonderwater is a little abandoned but famous railway station For those of you not having grown up in Afrikaans communities, whereas the English expression from “here to Timbuktu” is used to describe a long and difficult journey to a far off place, the Afrikaners use Putsonderwater instead. So the place is surprisingly famous in SA for an abandoned railway station settlement.
From Putsonderwater, it was westward to Kenhardt, and then more northward to Kakamas on the Orange River, not far from Upington. Upington is the other main town of the Northern Cape Province. The Upington-Kakamas region is known for major table grape farming operations, some wine making, and more recently the emergence of a significant solar farm industry….yes, the sun rarely goes behind the clouds in those parts.
A bit of trivia about Upington is that its airport has a 4.9km runway long runway, one of the longest in the world. It was built in the Apartheid boycott and sanctions years to facilitate the refuelling of large Boeing 747 aircraft traveling from Johannesburg to Europe at a time when SAA aircraft were not allowed to fly directly over Africa, thus lengthening their travel distance to Europe around West Africa. The aircraft could not take off with full tanks from Joburg due to its altitude, so the plan was to fly to lower altitude Upington and then refuel for a non-stop flight to Europe thereafter. Its intense heat also contributed to the long runway plan.
We jumped onto the N14 from Kakamas in a westerly direction for part of the ride to Onseepkans border town. This section of N14 is nice and flat and fast. We are told that foreign vehicle manufacturers are authorized to test vehicles on that stretch of road…..with a speed limit of 250km/hour for them…we couldn't quite reach such speeds.
Then, it was into Namibia for another highlight of the trip....a loop past the awesome Fish River Canyon at Hobas via Karasburg and Grunau...a visit to the canyon,,,,and then back southward to the Orange River at Aussenkehr table grape farming town. Table grape farmers farm in a near desert region there, fully under irrigation from the Orange River.
Thereafter it was southwards back into South Africa at Vioolsdrif....and down the N7 road via Steinkopf, Springbok, Kamieskroon, Garies and Nuwerus, whereafter we would turn off west towards the West Coast of the Western Cape.
John found his rear shock slowly deflating, and his shock pump faulty, on this stretch. Nothing like a quick call or two to the Springbok cycling community, and the very kind Spar owner in Springbok gave him a shock pump to pump away with for the rest of the trip. One finds great people out in SA’s rural regions.
We rolled into Blouberg, the end of the ride, in 15 days and about 8 hours after starting in Nottingham Road, and what an awesome ride it was.
Eden on the Bay, Blouberg, was the end of this ride, as it has been for many of our past 1,000 mile rides from upcountry. It offers the best view of Cape Town's majestic Table Mountain on a clear day, and a picture frame for the customary end of ride photo
Whilst we hit abnormal rains for the 1st 5 days of this ride, the route is normally extremely dry through much of the Northern Cape and Namibia. It also promises to have extreme heat in summer, and extreme cold (at least for us soft South Africans) in winter.
This was a special and spectacular ride in many ways. It is a very different ride to, say, the Western Cape 50 Passes 1,000 Miler route, the latter being greener and wetter and far hillier, while this one is (normally) about dry, harsh and spectacularly rugged terrain....including a taste of the world's oldest desert, the Namib. Carrying sufficient water over some lengthy distances between certain resupply points was crucial here....and good cappucinos weren't always in abundance.
Location Distance from Start Distance from last Amenities (Water/Food/Accommodation/Bike Maint.)
Nottingham Road 0km
Bergville 126km 126km W/F/A
Border Post 168km 42km W/F/A
Kestell 245km 77km W/F/A
Reitz 312km 67km WF/A
Petrus Steyn 348km 36km W/F/A
Heilbron 391km 43km W/F/A
Edenville 440km 49km W/F/A
Kroonstad 487km 47km W/F/A
Bothaville 564km 77km W/F/A
Hoopstad 665km 101km W/F/A
Hertzogville 717km 52km W/F/A
Boshoff 812km 95km W/F/A
Kimberley 865km 53km W/F/A/BM
Schmidtsdrif 934km 69km W/F
Campbell 970km 36km W/F
Griekwastad 1,016km 82km W/F/A
Groblershoop 1,152km 136km W/F
Putsonderwater 1,200km 48km Nothing
Kenhardt 1,274km 74km W/F/A
Kakamas 1,364km 90km W/F/A
Onseepkans 1,503km 139km W/F/A
(Border Times 08h00 - 16h30)
Karasburg 1,607km 104km W/F/A
Grunau 1,657km 50km W/F/A
Canyon Roadhouse 1,728km 71km W/F/A
Hobas 1,744km 16km W/F/A
Fish River Canyon Viewpoint 1,756km 12km Nothing
Hobas 1,768 12km W/F/A
Canyon Lodge 1,778km 10km W/F/A
Ai Ais turn-off 1,826km 48km W/F/A (off route)
Aussenkehr 1,885km 59km W/F/A
Noordoewer 1,936km 51km W/F/A
Vioolsdrif 1,941km 5km W/F/A
(Border Times 24 hours)
Steinkopf 2,008km 67km W/F/A
Springbok 2,057km 49km W/F/A
Kamieskroon 2,126km 69 km W/F/A
Garies 2,172km 46km W/F/A
Bitterfontein 2,234km 62km W/F
Nuwerus 2,250km 16km W/F/A
Koekenaap 2,299km 49km W/F
Lutzville 2,306km 7km W/F/A
Strandfontein 2,333km 27km W/F/A
Doringbaai 2,340km 7km W/F
Lamberts Bay 2,376km 36km W/F/A
Elands Bay 2,403km 27km W/F/A
Dwarskersbos 2,458km 55km W/F/A
Velddrif 2,469km 11km W/F/A
Hopefield 2,510km 41km W/F/A
Malmesbury 2,571km 61km W/F/A/BM
Kalbaskraal 2,586km 15km W/F
Melkbos 2,620km 34km W/F/A
Blouberg 2,628km 8km W/F/A