John Loos had long believed that there was something really cool about a ride from South Africa’s “Great City of Gold”, Johannesburg, built on the greatest gold fields ever discovered, to the “Mother City” of Cape Town with its beautiful flat Table Mountain. In between the 2 cities are some of the least populated areas of South Africa, including the spectacular Great Karoo….and it just so happens that the quiet roads (off the N1 highway)…added up to a total distance of near to 1,000 miles (1,600km).
This coincidence led to the idea of a race simply called The 1,000 Miler.
The Jozi - Cape Town Forgotten Highways Route is a 1st in the series of such “Milers”. Back in 2016, Andy Masters (of Massive Adventures) and John hatched the idea of an unsupported race from Joburg to Cape Town, to be known simply as The 1,000 Miler….Andy becoming the organizer of the race.
The race was near enough to 1,000 miles in distance if one took the most logical route, but it was not actually a fixed route race. Rather, the race had certain “checkpoints” (unmanned points on the map) through which unsupported riders had to pass, and in between checkpoints they were free to take whichever route they desired.
There were a few variations that did get taken at some points, and over the 4 years that the race ran from 2016 to 2019 there were a few tweaks in the checkpoint locations.
But the most popular route was a faster version of the Joburg 2 Blouberg “Miler” Route that we now know, because there was an option that one could take that was almost all fast tar road from the Joburg starting point to Colesberg.
The record holder for the 1,000 Miler Race was Bryce Hennessy, who won the race in 4 days, 7 hours and 18 minutes.
John rode the race in 2018 and 2019, cruising home in both races in a more sedentary 6 days and 8 hours.
Below, we give the route that is near to what was ridden by most riders in the 1,000 Miler races from 2016 to 2019….with a few tweaks initially on the route out of Johannesburg….starting outside the Lido Hotel/Shell City South on the R82 route to Vereeniging via Meyerton.
Click on link below for route and to download the GPX file:
https://ridewithgps.com/routes/44644981?privacy_code=axyo8XpJ64Cmg0EDqqwTFbRKLoYcX1RN
We call this the Forgotten Highways “Miler” Route, because it runs along large parts of the old Joburg-Cape Town N1 route initially, through once thriving towns long since bypassed by the modern day N1 highway, and then from Victoria West to the Tankwa Karoo it runs along what is known the tourism industry as the “Forgotten Highway”. This Forgotten Highway was once the main route from the Cape to the diamond rush city of Kimberley, and beyond to gold rush Joburg, many decades ago, before it too was bypassed by the more recent N1 route that followed a route more similar to the main railway route from Cape to the interior, some way to the south.
The route distance is approximately 1,574 km, and includes +9,287m of vertical ascent and -10,801m of vertical descent.
Key features of the route and the ride:
Johannesburg to Vaal River Crossing at Van der Bijl Park – 71 km (71 km from the start)
The start of the Forgotten Highways route is outside the Lido Hotel/Shell City South, a well-known hotel in Audax riding circles, not far from Klipriviersberg in the south of Joburg, just off the R82 route going south. The R82 is the old N1 route to Cape Town, the modern day N1 highway located more to the west today. The route leaves the R82 shortly after the start and goes east, onto quieter routes more to the east past Meyerton, via Three Rivers, and on to the Rivera Hotel on the Vaal River at Vereeniging.
After passing the Rivera Resort on the Vaal, the route moves onto Barrage Road going west to Van der Bijl Park, only crossing the Vaal River into the Free State at Van der Bijl Park. The original route out of Vereeniging straight into the Free State on the R82 became less appealing, becoming increasingly busy and being very narrow. The Barrage Road through Van der Bijl is far wider, albeit also busy.
Vaal River Crossing at Van der Bijl Park to Parys – 44km (115 km from the start)
The route goes back onto the old N1 route, now the R59 to Parys, at around the 84 km mark, after having crossed into the Free State at Van der Bijl Park
Parys to Vredefort – 16km (131km from the start)
It is a quick ride to the town of Vredefort, still within the impact crater, before the old N1 route turns south to Kroonstad.
Vredefort to Kroonstad – 76 km (207 km from the start)
After Vredefort, the old N1 becomes the R721 and turns south towards Kroonstad. Kroonstad is a large agricultural centre, formerly also a major railway junction. It has plenty of accommodation, eating and resupply options.
Kroonstad to Henneman – 43 km (250 km from the start)
After Kroonstad, the old N1 is also the current N1, so the ride route goes west of the N1 to Henneman on the and then onto Winburg. Henneman has a few limited B&B and resupply options.
Henneman to Winburg – 74 km (324 km from the start)
On this stretch is one of the few gravel stretches between Johannesburg and Colesberg, a 15km stretch of gravel near to Winburg. Winburg is a quiet former N1 stopover town these days, with the N1 bypassing it now, as does the national road coming from Harrismith and Durban. But it has a garage shop, and the Winburg Guest House is a useful stopover. The same people that own this guest house also own the Winburg Hotel. They make a good TBone steak, pepper sauce and chips.
Winburg was the location of the first Voortrekker Republic may years ago.
Winburg to Brandfort – 62 km (386 km from the start)
It’s back onto the former N1, now the Brandfort Road, for a fast 62 km trip to Brandfort, well-known as the home of Winnie Mandela during the period when the Apartheid Government banished her to this town.
Brandfort to Bloemfontein – 58 km (444 km from the start)
The Brandfort to Bloemfontein section involves a section of gravel next to the railway line from the Glen Agricultural College in order to avoid having to enter Bloemfontein on the very busy N1 highway bypass. Bloemfontein is a major city, the judicial capital of South Africa and the capital of the Free State (formerly a republic)
Bloemfontein to Reddersburg – 60 km (504 km from the start)
The trip out of Bl;oemfontein to Reddersburg is on what was the old N1 but is now the N6 to East London. Reddersburg is not the place one wants to hang around, but one will find a service station and a few shops open during the daytime with some take-aways.
Reddersburg to Edenburg - 26 km (530 km from the start)
After Reddersburg, the old N1 route is no longer the N6, becoming the quiet R717 for a quick trip to Edembeurg. Edenburg is a sorry old town, once a hive activity decades ago when the N1 used to pass through the middle of it….but the N1 has long since been diverted to bypass it. It also appears good for a quick pie and cold drink before moving on.
Edenburg to Trompsburg – 38 km (568 km from the start)
The 36km to Trompsburg is a quick and quiet tar road ride on the old N1. Trompsburg is a far better bet than Edenburg in terms of nice accommodation options, including a hotel and some guest houses, as well as one or 2 restaurants.
Trompsburg to Phillipolis – 56 km (624 km from the start)
More quiet ex-N1, now the R717 to Philippolis. Philippolis was hard hit after the N1 got rerouted via Gariep Dam a few decades ago, but has made something of a comeback by becoming somewhat “touristy”. It was the hometown of famous writer Sir Laurens van der Post, and one will find some nice accommodation and eating options here.
Phillipolis to Colesberg – 58 km (682km from the start)
More quiet tar road on the old N1 route from Phillipolis to Colesberg. Colesberg is a “24-hour town” in the N1. At the far end of Colesberg the route passes a 24-hour Engen OneStop with a well-stocked garage shop. There is also a KFC and the Merino Inn Motel with a 24-hour reception for check in.
Colesberg to De Aar - 117 km (799 km from the start) – approximately half way to Cape Town
From Colesberg, it’s the shift from being mostly tar to being mostly gravel road at least until Victoria West. Colesberg to De Aar is a gravel stretch through an assortment of farming areas, including some game farms. Just after leaving Colesberg there is a high gate in the road. The road is a public one, and after the people remotely monitoring the gate have seen who you are, you should be allowed through.
Rather than being on a forgotten highway, De Aar is a largely forgotten railway town. It is still a station on the mainline from Johannesburg to Cape Town, but many kilometers of empty rail track in its massive shunting yards in and around the station is from a bygone era where this massive railway junction was SA’s 2nd most important one in what was a mighty South African Railways empire. The town is still significant, however, as an agriculture centre, home to a large SANDF ammunition depot, and a very significant presence.
De Aar is slightly past the the half-way mark on the route. It has guest house accommodation and resupply options.
De Aar to Victoria West – 131 km (930 km from the start)
There’s another quiet gravel stretch from De Aar to Victoria West, largely following railway service roads next to the mainline southwards, past old railway settlements of Deelfontein and Merriman. Don’t expect resupply options at these places, as the railways has largely shut down here and the towns have followed suit. We deviate away from the railway line shortly before Victoria West, the home town of legendary Blue Bull and Springbok Rugby Player Mannetjies Roux. Victoria West is the first town with something of a tourist flavour to it, and is well supplied with a supermarket, restaurants, coffee shops and guest houses.
This may be a last option for easy bailing, as it is on the national road from Cape Town to Kimberley, which should see some bus services operating through here. This route is quieter than the N1 however.
Victoria West to Loxton – 82km (1,012km from the start)
From Victoria West, the route turns onto the R63 Forgotten Highway. The 89km to Loxton is tar, with some significant climbing before a drop later on towards Loxton.
Loxton is a very quiet little town, but does have a restaurant called Loxton Lekker, a small supermarket and some guest houses. However, like many other towns away from the national roads, it is best to arrive early to find accommodation and food. This town “closes” very early in the evening. And don’t get to Loxton too early in the morning either, or you may find everything still closed too.
Loxton to Fraserburg – 97km (1,109km from the start)
On down the now gravel “Forgotten Highway” the route goes to Fraserburg, which is not a touristy town but functional, and big enough to have a few grocery shops and bed and breakfasts. It is another town that “closes” early. One can often phone ahead to the guest houses in such towns, and they have been known to leave food orders in one’s room and a key in some hidden place for a rider to get in. Phoning ahead to book during daylight hours is advisable if you’re running late.
Fraserburg to Sutherland – 107km (1,216km from the start)
Sutherland is the home of some of the world’s largest telescopes, and is also the country’s coldest town in Winter, often experiencing Winter snowfalls. It is a touristy little town, and thus has ample supply of hotels, guest houses and restaurants. Nevertheless, it is probably advisable to either arrive early in the evening or phone ahead and book accommodation during daylight hours.
The route through Sutherland is known as the “Forgotten Highway”, because at a stage it was the main route to Kimberley, and beyond, from Cape Town. But when what is now the N1 route was built along the rail route to the south, these would-be boom towns never took off, as traffic along the route dwindled.
Sutherland to Tankwa Padstal – 118 km (1,334 km from the start)
From Sutherland, it is a major trek down the Great Escarpment via Verlatenkloof Pass, a tar road pass. Shortly after descending the escarpment, the route leaves the Forgotten Highway, and heads across a very dry and barren area called the Tankwa Karoo, to the quaint Tankwa Padstal (Farm Stall/Shop) 118 km away.
It is important to take note that the Tankwa Padstal, is the only resupply opportunity in the Tankwa Karoo, although one can get food made should you be using accommodation at Hartnekskloof Farm about 4kms past the Padstal. Also important is that the Padstal is open from 9h00 to 17h00 but closed on Wednesdays.
There are also some farms offering sel-catering accommodation options, but don’t always provide food. Bizansgat is one such option.
Tankwa Padstal to Ceres 88 km (1,422 km from the start)
The route leaves the Tankwa via the long straight road south towards Ceres. This is part of the road from Calvinia to Ceres, which is said to be the longest road between 2 towns in SA.
However, we deviate from this road to ride up the big Bo Swaarmoed Pass, because it is gravel and a quieter road into Ceres, descending Swaarmoed Pass on the other side of this big climb, and into Ceres.
Bo Swaarmoed is the biggest climb on this relatively flat 1,000 Miler route.
Ceres is the most impressive town since Bloemfontein, and there are ample guest houses, bed and breakfasts, take aways, restaurants and garage shops.
The route is mostly tar from here to Blouberg.
Ceres to Riebeeck Kasteel – 58km (1,480km from the start)
From Ceres we are back on the Forgotten Highway for a while. There is a fast descent down Mitchells Pass just after exiting Ceres, and then it is on past Wolseley and over Nuwekloof Pass. Nuwekloof Pass is a very easy and fast trip, with little climbing and mainly fast tar road descent as one heads nearer and nearer to sea level. It was the earliest pass leading to the country’s hinterland from Cape Town.
At the 1,487 km mark at the town of Gouda, where there is little worth stopping for other than to admire the big wind farm turbines on its outskirts, the road becomes gravel for a short 20km section to Riebeeck Kasteel.
Riebeeck Kasteel is a pretty little Town with some nice little eating and accommodation places….with good filter coffee. Don’t laugh about the filter coffee….further back up the route in the Free State its as scarce as hens teeth.
Riebeeck Kasteel to Malmesbury - 36 km (1,516 km from the start)
After a steep tar road climb over a pass on leaving Riebeeck Kasteel, it becomes a fast trip down to Malmesbury 37 km further on. Malmesbury is a big town with everything that opens and shuts, but most notably a McDonalds right on the route as one is about to exit the town.
Malmesbury to Blouberg - 58km (1,574km from the start)
Mostly tar, the route is gently undulating all the way to Melkbos, from where one hits the flat fast cycle path for the final 8km in to the finish at Eden on the Bay, Blouberg. The town of Kalbaskraal offers the last Coke stop at the 1,558 km mark.
Be sure to have your photo take at the big picture frame at Eden on the Bay, with Table Mountain in the background if the sky is clear.
Climate:
- The Free State is a Summer rainfall area, and it can be a mud bath during this period of the year. Lightning can be dangerous during Summer thunderstorms. Temperatures in summer can be extremely hot all along the route,sometimes in excess of 40 degrees Celsius. In winter, it can be bitterly cold by South African standards, with temperatures often going significantly into sub-zero territory at night. It is largely dry in Winter (2022 being a bit of an anomaly) along most of the route, barring the odd snowfall around Sutherland, and rain in the Western Cape right near the end of the ride after Ceres. The Western Cape is uniquely a winter rainfall area.
In winter, the prevailing winds along the route are more from the west and north west, and can thus present significant headwinds. The winds are often less or non-existent at night, which can make night riding an option if one can handle the cold. Spring and Autumn may present the best riding times, neither too hot nor too cold nor too wet.
Bikes:
- We prefer mountain bikes, with dual suspension, overgravel bikes. While this is simple gravel and tar road riding, the roads can be severely rutted in sections, and when they are we appreciate the dual suspension. It is an easy riding route, mostly flat to undulating, the biggest climbs and descents only being reached near to Sutherland late into the ride.
Logistics:
- While major towns on the N1 such as Bloemfontein and Colesberg are “24-hour towns”, where one can find some form of shop and accommodation open around the clock, many of the other towns are not like that. The likes of Winburg, Loxton and Fraserburg see businesses closing early in the evening. This requires some planning. It is best to depart early and arrive early at an overnight or resupply destination, in order to find shops and guest houses still open. If one is running late, it is best to phone a guest house owner in the afternoon to book a bed and perhaps some food. Some guest houses will leave a key hidden somewhere for a rider to let themselves in late in the evening, and even leave food in one’s room if ordered. The Karoo folk can often be helpful like that.
If one is thinking of “bailing” from a ride, there are easy options up until Richmond, at various towns along the N1. Many of these towns have major bus services stopping and taking on passengers for Johannesburg or Cape Town, and one can easily book online. One should check with the bus company in advance about being allowed to take a bike onboard. Some companies are “sticky” about this.
Further down the route, along the Forgotten Highway, it is more difficult to “bail” early, although it can be done via various roads heading south to N1 towns such asBeaufort West, Laingsburg and Touws River a little further away.
Overnight stays:
- Some folk have been known to sleep in the “bush” near to the road, taking tents or bivvy sacks and sleeping bags. That’s the heavy packing option. This shouldn’t be necessary though. At no time, apart from between Sutherland and Ceres (195km), is the distance between towns much over 100km, and there are plenty of accommodation options, often with lower prices the further away from the N1 route one goes. Even between Sutherland and Ceres through the Tankwa Karoo, there are some limited accommodation options, though these are often self-catering, so some planning and carrying of food from Sutherland for the overnight stay may be required.
Speed of Service:
- The country towns en route are often known for their friendliness, but not for their speed. If one is in a hurry, and wants to take a short break before moving on, ordering cooked food that needs to be prepared may not always be a great idea. Even take-aways do not compete with McDonalds and the like for speed around these parts…..and McDonalds is not a common occurrence on this ride.
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